Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains.

The foundation of this book is a very carefully kept journal, for the most part, noted down the evening by evening over the campfire, and none of it written, save a sentence, or two, at intervals of more than a few days after the occurrences it relates; so that it has at least the merit of being a true reflection of the thoughts and feelings of the time, as well as a faithful narrative of incident, conversation, and adventure.

In submitting such a journal to the public, three principal methods of dealing with it at once suggest themselves

First - To print it as it stands, without omission or change;

Second - To preserve its form, but amend and amplify its diction;

Third - To recast the whole, and frame it into a continuous story.

The first of these methods is almost impossible where the diary has not been originally designed for publication, but, formless and uneven, exists as a mere assemblage of ill-balanced notes, abounding in rough disjointed sentences, dry repetitions, and frequent references to matters of a private nature. The third system is that which is nowadays most in favour, and its advantages are great and evident it frequently leads to many small exaggerations, amounting in the aggregate to a large untruthfulness, and almost certainly removes the freshness and individuality that characterize even the feeblest of daily records; in the present case, moreover, it would be more than usually hazardous, owing to the risk of any drafts on memory or retrospective fancy, after so long a lapse of time. The second method is generally the worst of all; it is apt to unite the meagerness of the journal with the inexactness of an after-narrative while presenting neither the freshness of the one, nor the smoothness and freedom of the other: to work on this system, though sometimes scarcely avoidable, is to invite trouble and run much risk of failure.

After careful consideration, I have adopted a mixed plan, seeking as far as may be to combine the advantages of all these methods: I have sometimes employed one of them, sometimes another, varying the manner of my treatment according to the demands of each particular case.

My work, as it now stands, has been arranged on the following general system:

In certain parts, and especially toward the beginning of the volume, I have, with large omissions fused my journal into something of the narrative form, while preserving its order and partially retaining its diction; but, where this has been done, I have endeavoured to make my intention clear, so that the reader may not be cheated into accepting the remarks of today as those of fifteen years ago. In other parts, I have followed my notes with some closeness, though not without more or less extensive alterations in the phraseology and construction. In most parts, however, and especially in the latter half of the volume, I have made a literal, or almost literal, transcript from my diary, marking such extracts, when they occur, by single inverted commas. Verbal changes, transposition of sentences, and such - like trivial amendments, I have sometimes, though sparingly, admitted, and in certain rare cases I have added a few words to explain or, elucidate my meaning; but with these limitations the passages referred to may be relied on as actual extracts from the journal, even in portions that might be fancied too full or elaborate to have formed part of the real diary of a traveller in the wilds. I do not, of course, attach value to the mere diction of my journal, as possessing any merit, or importance in itself, but only as affording a guarantee of perfect accuracy so far as the writer could compass it. So careful have I been to preserve an exact truthfulness - which to my mind seems more important in a book of travels than picturesque word painting, or luxuriant adornments of style - that wherever I have offered anything beyond the most slight, or obviously recent addition to the material existent in the journal, I have bracketed offer such passages, however certain of their accuracy, lest some trick of memory should be leading me into confusion, or mistake.

In the Appendix, besides a few miscellaneous papers at the end, I have collected various passages from my diary, which bore but slight relation to the main story, while from their length, character, or position, they tended to impede its progress. Being chiefly memoranda on Shakespearian and theological subjects, - with recent additions, expanded in the case of Hamlet almost into an essay, - they are little calculated, I fear, that to interest the majority of readers; some, nevertheless, may consider them worth perusal; and for different reasons I was desirous to preserve those portions of my work, though was relegating them to a place where they need not be found unless sought for. Its no definite purpose of mine to gather notes on subjects of a scientific nature, nor closely to record the geographical features of the country through which I travelled; where, however, details of that class do happen to occur, I have thought it best to give them as they actually stand, without attempting to improve them by private collation with the valuable works on the same part of northern America, which have appeared since the date of my journey, - every collation throughout the volume being distinctly pointed and very carefully acknowledged*, and Superior in various important respects as some of these works must undoubtedly be to mine, - composed as they were by men of science attached to exploring expeditions organized by the British and Canadian Governments, - I cannot but remember that my information, however cursorily noted, was either gained personal observation, or from sources so good, that, in cases of difference (and a few such there may be), it is by no means impossible that I am in the right, and the more qualified author in the wrong. At all events in such cases, a comparison would be worth making; so I have left the means of making it, instead of seeking to prevent disparities by the invasion of another man's store, whenever his materials seemed better than those collected by myself.

As regards the maps which appear in this volume, the larger of the two - comprising my general route through the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories - sufficiently speaks for itself, subject to the explanation that it has been prepared by the Messrs. Keith Johnston, with special reference to the aspect of the country, in it's boundaries, settlements, railways, etc., as existing at the period of my journey, - viz. in the years 1859 and 1860.

The smaller map, however, - is illustrative of my route while travelling in the Rocky Mountains, - demands perhaps more particular notice; as I am personally accountable, not only for its arrangement, but for the details of a certain portion of the country, never before (nor probably since) visited by any European. On these points it may be noted, that the outlines of the map in question - which are of my own framing - have been composed by adjustment from the principal maps in the Blue Books relating to Captain Palliser's Expedition; and that the newly explored valleys are laid down from a sketch made by me in 1860, while the memory of the localities was still fresh in my mind.

I regret that circumstances should have prevented me from forming a better record of my explorations than a mere approximate sketch, - or even on unimportant subjects accuracy will often prove to be of value, - but, such as it is, I offer it as some small tribute to the treasury of geographical knowledge.

As regards the illustrations, whether on separate pages or, attached to the letterpress of the work, the greater number of these are derived from my sketches and drawings; the exception entirely consisting of those which have been reproduced from photographs, or found on them with some slight alteration.

To the former class belong all, save one, of the illustrations of scenery, every example of which may be relied on as a truthful though imperfect portrayal of Nature, - notwithstanding the roughness of my drawings, and the marvellous improvement in all artistic qualities which they have sustained under Mr. Whymper's skillful hand.

To the latter class must be referred the various representations of animals' heads, taken from skulls and stuffed specimens in my possession; also several relating to other objects - viz., Red River Fire-Bags, - Cree Whip, - Edmonton Hunter's Bag, - Assiniboine Fire-Bag, Knife-sheath, and Pipe, - many of which are engraved from excellent photographs by Mr. Eodgers, of Montrose; and in addition to these the view of Minnehaha Falls, by Mr. Whitney, a St. Paul photographer, the only landscape for which my own pencil is not originally responsible.

Most of the smaller and less elaborate illustrations belong to the former of these classes, being facsimiles, or nearly so, of pen-and-ink memoranda hastily sketched into my journal; the exceptions are as follows - Buffalo-hide Line, - Whisky, Snowshoe and Skida, - sketches only recently prepared by me expressly for the present volume. I will not add to an already lengthened preface, by attempting to detail the causes which are answerable for so many years' delay in the publication of these travels, nor by seeking to account for, or excuse, their publication under such unusual circumstances - the work must vindicate itself, or fail; but, having offered the explanations that seemed absolutely needful, I now submit my book to the courteous reader, in the hope that, whatever the extent of its imperfections, it may still be found to possess some degree of interest, and to afford some new information regarding a country, not yet superfluously depicted and described.

* It may be well to inform the reader that the word Saskatchewan is pronounced with a strong accent on the second syllable - thus, Sas-katch-e-waun.

"As the humble representative of the Wesleyan Missionary Society in these parts, allow me to feel honoured by your Lordship's favourable recognition of my predecessor, as outlined in the accompanying paper, taken from the Wesleyan Missionary Notices for April last, and copied from the Church of Scotland Missionary Record. The same substance appeared in the Nor' Wester of Jan. 2nd.

["Christian Families among the Indian Tribes. The Earl of Southesk, during his recent hunting expedition in the Rocky Mountains, fell in with about twelve families of Assiniboine or Stone Indians (very wild and savage as a tribe), who professed Christianity, and, so far as he could judge, were acting up to their profession. These families were far from any missionary station and had not even seen a missionary for many years. Still, they showed a considerable acquaintance with Scripture and were regular in their morning and evening devotions. At their earnest request, his Lordship wrote several passages of Scripture for them. Their knowledge of religion is supposed to have been imparted by the Rev. Mr. Randall (Rundle), a Wesleyan missionary who went to Fort Edmonton in 1839, and left the country in 1847, on account of ill health; they have, however, a regular teacher in one of themselves, who has been set apart by them for that purpose. - "Record Newspaper."

The Stone Indians are, without doubt, exclusively indebted to Mr. Rundle, under God, for all the religious instruction they primarily received, as he devoted himself most assiduously to them during his eight years' sojourn in the Saskatchewan; and it is a great satisfaction that any of them retained what they had previously received, after being without a missionary from 1848 to 1855, when I entered upon the duties of this peculiar section of John Wesley's parish - that venerable man's motto being, 'The world is my parish.'

"But your Lordship's statement conveys the idea that I have, to a certain extent, been 'at ease in Zion,' at least regarding being some of that interesting portion of the aborigines - not designedly I am aware, but I fear that your Lordship has been misinformed, as I saw the very Assiniboine's referred to last February when they expressed their high appreciation of your Lordship's kindness to them; and these are the very families whom I have visited frequently since '56. They may have expressed themselves regarding not having seen a missionary since Mr. Rundle left until they met with me, but I think that is all they could say; so your interpreters must have misunderstood them, and, consequently, misled your Lordship. I would not be so positive, as a few families could have escaped my notice, if I had not met with the same Indians last February, and recognized them as the very individuals I had often seen previously. I have visited them near the mountains every winter for three years and travelled far to see a few straggling families that were not with the main band. During two visits paid to them, between Ghost and Bow Rivers, I baptized 116 adults and 196 children, besides solemnizing 28 marriages.

"The above remarks have been made simply by way of explanation, and without the least design of casting any reflection upon your Lordship's observations, which, I have no doubt, will be appreciated by a sincere lover of 'the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth.'

"your Lordship may probably feel interested in a narrative of events connected with this remote spot, I will endeavour to furnish a few of the more remarkable items.

"In September '59, I enclosed a few letters to your Lordship, designed for transmission from Carlton House to Red River, but had the mortification to learn, in a month or two, that the letter carrier had thrown the whole of the mail into the Saskatchewan.

"The summer of '59, we have since understood, was a somewhat disastrous one to many persons in the Territory, through the loss of the chartered ship Kitty, nearly all mission and private orders being on board of her. Several of my consignments are missing. The past twelve months have also proved very unpropitious to this mission, as the Sarcee have stolen two of my horses, two others have died from natural causes, and one has been devoured by the wood wolves. Occasional skirmishes have taken place amongst the different tribes, in which all have suffered more or less. Killed and wounded may be reported amongst the Blackfeet, Blood Indians, Sarcee, and Cree. A freeman was killed by the Sarcee last August while I was with the Cree and freemen. I shall not soon forget the excessive grief manifested as his friends brought his bloody corpse to the camp. Several horses were stolen, - mine amongst the number, although I subsequently recovered them, on payment of about £6 sterling. Crime has to be rewarded in these parts.

"Last month an unusual occurrence took place at this fort, a Cree deliberately shooting a Blackfoot chief and scalping him near the very spot where your Lordship and I took leave of each other. The fort gates were instantly closed, lest the Blackfeet should take revenge upon the whites. Three of the Company's employees, who were just coming from the boat, were laid hold of by the Blackfeet, but by an almost superhuman struggle escaped, and ran for their lives. Two days after, a few Sarcee crossed the river and had just seated themselves on the opposite bank, when a war party of Cree, from Fort Pitt, fired upon them, killed one instantly, and scalped him. The others threw away their robes and fled, wounded, it is supposed, as several bullets had passed through their robes.

"It is well that your Lordship went through the country last year, as it would have been unsafe this season. An eminent traveller has judiciously observed, regarding the Indians, that 'in time of peace, no greater friends; in time of war, no greater enemies.' Yes, then their hatred is implacable."

"When Yes, then their barbarity is proverbial - their hatred with the Cree last August, I visited the locality renowned for having a large piece of iron there. An adjoining lake and a rivulet bear the respective designations of Iron Lake and Iron Rivulet. Well, there the iron is, as pure as possible, and as sonorous as an anvil, and weighs, I should judge, 200 lbs. It is on the summit of a mound, but whether it is a meteoric phenomenon . . . or indicative of iron in that section, I cannot say . . . "Just as I am finishing this letter a messenger has arrived from Fort Pitt, with tidings of a war party of Blackfeet having fallen upon the Cree, and killed 20 of them, and that four Blackfeet fell in the struggle."